Sweet stay: Parador de Santo Estevo

I will be leaving for Spain in another two weeks--and will be staying in some paradores again. 

The paradores of Spain are lodgings that have been incorporated (in many cases) in ancient monasteries, medieval castles and palaces. One of the most beautiful that I have spent a

night at was Santo Estevo --located in the Galician region of Spain. A former Benedictine monastery, it  dates back to the 10th century (and further). 

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The road into the monastery is so narrow that our little van had to stop atop a hill and we
had to roll our suitcases down to the monastery entrance. Not an inconvenience at all when you consider the view one has before walking down the narrow lane to this parador. You overlook a grove (or is it an orchard?) of chestnut trees. And when I was there in the autumn, there were nets set up below each of the trees to make it easier to harvest all the fallen chestnuts. There was also a little chicken coop set up on the side of the lane--and all I could think was that those chickens had the best view of any chicken anywhere. Ah, to be a chicken in Galicia, Spain!

The 77 some rooms  within the monastery are set amid the three cloistered areas and all are different but lovely (with beautiful bathrooms) --I loved the little shuttered windows in this room--and the facing  window seats next to a fantastic view. Oh, to be a monk meditating while overlooking such a setting!

One of the places to have an espresso or a light lunch was in the walkway with the view
of the courtyard. Oh, to be a monk having an espresso in such a place. (Wait, did
monks have espresso?)

Or a cheese plate like this one, above, or cake like the photo below? (Were monks allowed whipped cream?)

The other best part about staying here is just exploring the entire premises. Styles from

Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance abound. The three cloisters are amazing. It's noted that its origins could date back to the 6th and 7th centuries. The monastery is located in the heart of what is called the Ribeira Sacra ("holy river bank"), which refers to the lands that border the meeting of the rivers Sil and Mino.  Along with gorgeous scenery, the area is rich with vineyards (bodegas and wine cellars have won international awards),  small picturesque villages and a haunting charm that is addictive. 

For more information check out Spain's official paradores website. 

Dreaming of Galicia, Spain

On this snowy slushy day (will winter never end??) I am experimenting with adding an Animoto video I made with my photos from Galicia--and recalling my time there. Click on: Why I love Galicia and see if it works...My visit to Santiago de Compostela was dream-filled, with drenching rain, ghost stories, mystical flaming drinks, and.... so much more. Memories of those "pimientos de Padron"--small roasted green peppers that are sharp and hot, washed down with a glass of the cold Albarino wine...Afternoons, drinking little cups of thick hot chocolate--served with warm sugared churros. One morning, I remember hot strong espresso and a slice of the city's signature Tarta de Santiago (almond cake). Displayed in every patisserie window in the city, the cake is one of those simple perfections-- its cross of St. James stenciled in powdered sugar on top. Besides buying the cake at the patisseries, go to the city's convents. Compostela's Benedictine and Dominican nuns are renowned bakers--they also sell the Tarta de Santiago plus delicious cookies--true sweet blessings.

Pictured below is the Monasterio de Benedictinas San Pelayo de Ante Altares in Santiago de Compostela where I bought the Tarta de Santiago and also a box of yummy cookies. The nuns sell their baked goods from behind the iron bars you see here. They do not allow photos of themselves. You ring a bell on the wall nearby and one of the nuns comes to the "window" and opens it. Then they bring out what you order, you pay, and they spin the boxes of goods slowly out to you on the revolving wooden lazy-susan that slips under the iron grates. Very ingenious--and definitely worth seeking out both for the experience AND the delicious sweets.