Sweet Stay: Parador Conde de La Gomera

Recently, the St. Paul Pioneer Press published a travel story of mine about Spain's Canary Islands: Beyond the beaches. I wrote about my time on the islands of Tenerife and La Gomera. While I was there, last fall, I stayed at several stunning and beautiful places--in settings that I could have easily settled in for a few weeks! One of the most memorable (who am I kidding? they were all memorable)  was at the parador on La Gomera. Because of word constraints and photo space available, of course there was no way the newspaper could print everything I wanted--but that is the beauty of internet and a blog! The parador on the island is one of the most lovely I've seen--filled with gardens you can stroll through--along with a spectacular swimming pool--and overlooks that seemed out of a movie (one side overlooked San Sebastian and its harbor; the other across to Mount Teide on Tenerife). Whether at sunrise or sunset (I was out at both!) the whole feeling was a mixture of magic and art and nature and timelessness.

The room was simple, spacious, airy and inviting. I loved the high beds and heavy wooden window shutters. At night, the ledge was wide enough for me to sit on, and stare out at the half moon over the Mediterranean. In the morning, I awoke to the lovely sweep of palm leaves rustling...
and the promise of a good cortado--the biggest decision of the morning being whether I sip it in the courtyard or the garden....

Sweet Stay: Hotel la Perouse in Nice, France

It is some ungodly temp (10 below?) here in Minneapolis today. But I am dreaming about
June in Nice, France, and breakfast on my hotel balcony at the beautiful four star boutique  Hotel la Perouse. With views overlooking Nice and the Bay of Angels, the hotel is located within a high-perched building--and filled with the artwork of Sylvie T that I fell in love with before I even left for
the French Riviera. Imagine my surprise to discover her beautiful artwork is framed and featured
throughout the hotel's numerous hallways and walls.

The hotel even has a swimming pool on top of its terrace and a lovely courtyard for dining--with lemon trees surrounding the tables. "We make lemon pies from the lemons," a hotel worker informed me.

My breakfast, which included several pastries (I'm ashamed to admit I ate most all of them) included a flaky wonderful croissant--and I had to almost do battle with the little birds who waited (sometimes

impatiently) nearby my balcony for any flakes that drifted downward and away from my mouth. That morning, I can still recall with extreme clarity:  My "cafe" was strong and dark, the sun was just heating up and the sky blue, blue, blue.  I was headed to the antique market in Old Town Nice. Another day in paradise. That's why we travel: for warm memories that sustain us on the coldest days.

Sweet stay: Parador de Santo Estevo

I will be leaving for Spain in another two weeks--and will be staying in some paradores again. 

The paradores of Spain are lodgings that have been incorporated (in many cases) in ancient monasteries, medieval castles and palaces. One of the most beautiful that I have spent a

night at was Santo Estevo --located in the Galician region of Spain. A former Benedictine monastery, it  dates back to the 10th century (and further). 

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The road into the monastery is so narrow that our little van had to stop atop a hill and we
had to roll our suitcases down to the monastery entrance. Not an inconvenience at all when you consider the view one has before walking down the narrow lane to this parador. You overlook a grove (or is it an orchard?) of chestnut trees. And when I was there in the autumn, there were nets set up below each of the trees to make it easier to harvest all the fallen chestnuts. There was also a little chicken coop set up on the side of the lane--and all I could think was that those chickens had the best view of any chicken anywhere. Ah, to be a chicken in Galicia, Spain!

The 77 some rooms  within the monastery are set amid the three cloistered areas and all are different but lovely (with beautiful bathrooms) --I loved the little shuttered windows in this room--and the facing  window seats next to a fantastic view. Oh, to be a monk meditating while overlooking such a setting!

One of the places to have an espresso or a light lunch was in the walkway with the view
of the courtyard. Oh, to be a monk having an espresso in such a place. (Wait, did
monks have espresso?)

Or a cheese plate like this one, above, or cake like the photo below? (Were monks allowed whipped cream?)

The other best part about staying here is just exploring the entire premises. Styles from

Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance abound. The three cloisters are amazing. It's noted that its origins could date back to the 6th and 7th centuries. The monastery is located in the heart of what is called the Ribeira Sacra ("holy river bank"), which refers to the lands that border the meeting of the rivers Sil and Mino.  Along with gorgeous scenery, the area is rich with vineyards (bodegas and wine cellars have won international awards),  small picturesque villages and a haunting charm that is addictive. 

For more information check out Spain's official paradores website. 

Staying at "home" in Treguier, France

Today my story about Brittany, France appears in the Minneapolis Star Tribune, "At home in Brittany". Even with two almost full pages devoted to the story and photos, I realized it might be fun to add some extra photos here to showcase Lucia's fabulous Maison de Granit in Brittany that you can rent. 

                              opening our shutters to a new morning in Treguier

             

                                   every kitchen should be such great fun to work in!

                                     

                                                 

I REALLY wanted to buy this,but even I had to admit it might be too heavy for the suitcase

                                                 I even loved the egg cartons!!

Okay--we didn't just buy food at some of the markets--we found shoes at one!

I could go on and on--but I must stop. If I had the crepe pan, I would go make some crepes

now. I'm seriously thinking that I may have to buy one next time I'm there.  It wasn't THAT heavy. 

Sweet Stay: Hotel Santo Domingo in Madrid, Spain

Not to be confused with the Hotel Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic, this pretty hotel is not "surrounded by 14 acres of lush tropical gardens". It is, however, smack dab in the historic center of Madrid--within walking distance of the Puerta del Sol and all the other famous Madrid attractions you'll want to see when you're in Madrid. You should also not be put off by the fact it is part of the Best Western chain--chain hotels and restaurants often being something I try to avoid when I'm traveling. This little gem is a darling (forgive me) but it really is, boutique hotel in the best sense of the word. Every room is different, so perhaps I was just lucky, but I loved my pale pink girlie room. I walked in and my first thought was that this would be a perfect place for sisters (or best girlfriends)to stay if they were spending time in Madrid. The bathroom was lovely: Check out the tile.

And yes, that tub is a mini personal jacuzzi-like tub. Here is a shot of the framed print over the bed. I liked how they framed the poster between panes of glass so that the pale pink of the wall shows through. I thought that was a cool decorating idea.

Here is a shot of the view from my window. One of the things I love about staying in Spain (or anywhere in Europe) is how you can crank open the windows wide (no screens! no bugs!). Why is that? I looked out over tile roofs and onto another pink sided building. I never saw anyone over there, but I wondered what it would be like to live in a place like that.

The hotel is also a "little museum" with beautifully framed paintings throughout. I wish I would have had more time to look at them. Here are two that were in the restaurant where I ate breakfast.




The lobby was filled with overstuffed striped sofas and more paintings, the staff friendly and helpful (several spoke English). It was an entirely sweet stay here. Best of all, I slept like a princess.

INFO:
Best Western Premier Hotel Santo Domingo
Plaza de Santo Domingo, 13-28013 Madrid Spain
www.bestwestern.es

Sweet Stay: Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe, Dresden, Germany

Since I mentioned I would be writing/blogging about "sweet stays" I've enjoyed while traveling, I thought it was time I wrote about some. I decided to start in Dresden since I was most recently there and had a very very sweet stay indeed. I was at the Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe, in the same square as the Frauenkirch and overlooking the Neumarkt. But part of the sweet experience for me, I admit, was the service I received. Including that luxurious amenity called: "Room Service". For the record, I have occasionally had room service -- coffee in the morning delivered with some pastries. But I have never had a full blown meal brought to my room.
Doesn't this look cozy? It was. The whole scenario was right out of a movie. Complete with that silver dome lid over my pasta with pesto and parmesan and a vase containing one long stemmed single pink rose! The bellhop wheeled in the trolley and even poured my beer! (Please note: there may be two robes and slippers on those beds but it was just me in the room. Just in case anyone is wondering.)

Here's the story: I left Frankfurt on the train at 7 for Dresden, dragging a HUGE HEAVY suitcase (it was so heavy it had to have its own ticket--like being shipped-- on a local flight I had come in on from Madrid.) NEVER AGAIN will I travel with such a huge suitcase. Rosemary, Angie: I am not kidding, never again.
Okay, part of the reason it was so heavy: I bought some bottles of this fantastic herbal liqueur in Santiago de Compostela, Spain (see photo below). How 'bout 3 bottles? They told me it gave you sweet dreams (and it really did)

At any rate, despite the suitcase, I discovered I love German trains. At the Frankfurt airport, it was easy to find the train station (across the street).
The train was fabulous--German trains are right on time, clean and wonderful. But hauling that suitcase on and off was a total nightmare. Luckily, some nice gentlemen helped me along the way.
I arrived at Dresden about 11:30 at night-- and the train station was deserted. Even so, I have to say, it was not at all scary--in fact I actually enjoyed wandering through that quiet ancient station after all the hectic-ness of the day. I felt as if I were living in another life. If only that other life included a butler (to carry my suitcases.)
Outside the door, there were three taxis, with three taxi drivers standing around waiting for late arrivals. They spoke little English, but one came and got my suitcases to take to the first taxi. When he lifted the big suitcase, I apologized, "oh, it's very heavy" I said. He agreed. "Do you have rocks in there?" (He knew more English than I realized.)
Approximately, 5 minutes later I was at the Steigenberger hotel and checked in. When I asked if there were any places around where I could get a sandwich, the clerk (who spoke very good English) shook her head. I wasn't too disappointed. I was tired, and it was late--and I wanted to see my room. I love hotel rooms. And I really love beautiful European hotel rooms. The kind with windows that crank open and tile bathrooms and comfy robes. The Steigenberger did not disappoint! And then! I no sooner got to my room and a phone call: the clerk had found a place that offered to make me something to eat. Would I like a pesto pasta dish or a potato soup? I ordered the pasta. Would I like anything to drink? Because I was in Germany and it was my first time in Germany, I ordered a beer. For the record: the pasta was perfect, the beer was perfect. It was one of the best meals I have ever had at a hotel. I'm totally serious.
For dessert, awaiting me on a table (it had been brought to my room earlier) was this:

How sweet is that?
In the morning, I opened my window to this view:


It was a blue sky, I could hear the church bells. Then I had breakfast at the hotel. That's when I knew this was truly a sweet hotel.

First I had a slice of this Eierschecke. It is a cross between a custard and a cake and it is delicious. I ate the tip of the pie before I photographed it. I just couldn't wait. Unfortunately, now all my photos of this cake have the tip missing. (Please note, fresh red roses on the table. Also, that oj in the stemmed glass. Yes. How do you say Mimosa in German? (The Germans know how to start the day right.)
This is the exterior of the hotel. I discovered there was a bakery around the corner.

It even had a take/out window. Hotel location is everything.
In the morning, I went on a tour of the area near the hotel. Another hotel near by is where President Obama stayed when he was here this past spring. The Dresdeners were extremely proud of the fact that Obama visited their city. (And I was proud to say again that I was from "America.") Here's the hotel Obama stayed at while he visited Dresden.



In fact, they were so proud of his visit, I even got to see the room he stayed in while at the hotel.

I thought my room was just as nice though! Although he had a nicer sitting area.

Note the dining area behind the sitting area.

In the morning, this was Obama's view. Almost as nice as the view from my hotel room. Sorry, prez.

For more information: www.steigenberger.com; check the reviews on tripadvisor too--they say it all.